Silver 0.900 Omega Niello Racing Motif c1918

Silver 0.900 Omega Niello Racing Motif c1918 in Excellent condition

This is an Omega watch with a Niello motif. Niello was a technique using contrasting metals. It was used for decoration for a brief period from around 1900 to the beginning of the 1920s, and therefore, it is usually in the Art Nouveau or Art Deco style.

Dial: The white enamel dial has Art Nouveau numerals and the 12 in red with an outer minute track and is inset with a subsidiary dial at the 6. It has decorative rose-gold pierced gilt hands. The dial is signed ‘Omega.’ There is a slight hairline crack between the 2 and the 3 on the dial.  It comes with a bull's eye glass.

Movement: The high-quality anchor lever movement has 17 jewels, it is a stem wound; it has 17 rubies. The movement is signed: ‘Omega’ and numbered 5199602 The movement is in good working condition; however, we cannot guarantee accuracy for an antique pocket watch.

Case: The watch is in a 0.900 silver full hunter case with an all-over Niello design – A motor car racing scene with two people with gold inlay. The inner side of the case is signed ‘Omega’ with gold inlay medals stamped with Swiss hallmark No: 60185867.

Niello is a type of silverware decorated with engraved designs filled with a clack compound. Care is needed when cleaning niello, as the piece will be damaged if the compound is removed. Never use a dip, but lightly clean the surface with a long-term silver polish to reveal the design.

Diameter: 51mm – Weight: 39 gr

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More information about NIELLO

In the early 1900s, inspired by Art Nouveau and Art Deco, the Niello watch case emerged as an exceptional canvas for unique artworks. Niello, derived from the Latin word nigellum, was a technique used by ancient civilizations like the Greeks, Romans, Egyptians, and Persians. This black or blackish-blue mixture, comprising lead, silver, copper, sulphur, and ammonium chloride, was fired onto engraved metal bases, much like champlevé enamelling. Silver was frequently used for its striking contrast with the darker niello, creating tri-colour effects with rose gold and silver.

The niello process involved filling, finishing, and polishing to ensure a smooth watch case surface, making it time-consuming and costly. Artists designed the niello cases, which were then detailed by engravers. Longines of St. Imer contributed significantly to the design and marketing of decorative watches, known for both their movements and attractive case designs. The primary artistic influences for these rare niello cases were the free-flowing designs of the Art Nouveau period, featuring animals, flowers, and thematic inspirations.

Beginning in the early 1890s, the Art Nouveau period drew influence from the symbolist movement, emphasizing imagination and expressive quality in contrast to rigid Victorian styles. René Lalique of Paris was a leading jewellery designer of this era, notable for his nature-inspired and mystical motifs. The movement incorporated symbolism, using elements from the natural and spiritual worlds to evoke emotions and moods. Flowers and animal figures carried specific meanings, with roses signifying youth and beauty, and lilies of the valley symbolizing happiness.

Niello watch cases uniquely reflect influences from both Art Nouveau and Art Deco, the latter characterized by chromatic contrast and linear styling from 1925 to the 1940s. The discovery of Tutankhamun in 1922 inspired designers to incorporate Egyptian motifs like scarabs and obelisks. The value of niello enamel-cased watches depends on the design, subject matter, and condition, with hunter cases valued higher than open-face ones. Damage such as scratches and chips diminish their value, while mint-condition examples are highly prized due to the wear typically caused by daily use.